The Kuba (also called Bakuba) people in the Democratic Republic of Congo, formerly Zaire, are recognized as among Africa’s most pre-eminent artists. They have a tradition of weaving cloth from the split leaves of the raffia palm, a practice that continues to this day.

Kuba cloths are prized by collectors for their superb designs and muted colors that make them seem contemporary. Most textiles are a variation of square or rectangular pieces dyed in red, brown, black and tan and enhanced by geometric designs that are either embroidered or applique stitched.

Below, I provide a brief history of the Kuba textile tradition, the indigenous use of these cloths, and how they are made and by whom. Finally I showcase examples of Kuba textiles collected in homes and museums.

History

The Kuba kingdom, which lasted from the 16^th through the 19^th century, represented one of the most powerful societies in Africa trading ivory and rubber. Textile making began in the 17^th century when central governments in the region used woven cloths as a form of tribute-tax to expand the royal treasury.

Weaving is also of paramount importance to the Kuba peoples as woven fabric formed the basis of ceremonial dress for royalty and thus functioned as status objects expressing power, wealth and hierarchy.

The Making of Kuba Cloths

There are two main types of Kuba cloth in terms of production. The first is the Shoowa, which is a kind of cut-pile tapestry in which designs are stitched onto the cloth and then raifia fibre is drawn through the needle and snipped with a knife to make a dense pile showing a plush, velvet-like effect. Here is an example. Notice the rich geometric patterns on the cloth.

The second type of Kuba cloth uses the applique technique, where the applique designs are stitched on and then the cloth is sewn together to make the final piece. Here is an example of an applique cloth.

Both types of cloth are woven only by men on a 45-degree angled loom. the weaving process requires great skill and physical stamina as the men as always working above their heads. Women oversee the embellishment of the woven pieces. This work includes making the cut-pile sections, applying surface designs, ensuring contrasting colors on the base cloth to create aesthetically pleasing patterns.

As mentioned, Kuba textiles tend to come in muted colors – predominantly red, brown, black on an ochre or tan background. In traditional cloths, these colors were derived naturally from vegetal dyes, whereas in modern cloths, synthetic dyes are used but these tend to be harsher and brighter in character. It should be mentioned that red is a particularly significant color in Kuba culture as it is perceived as beautiful and powerful. Predominantly red cloths are used in in funerals as well as other significant ceremonies.

Influence on Modern Art

In view of their abstract geometric patterns, it’s not surprising that Kuba cloths have endeared many modern artists, such as Henri Matisse, seen here in a historical photo where Kuba cloths adorn the walls of his studio alongside with his cutouts. It is said that Matisse would sit and stare at the cloths “waiting for something to come to me out of their distinctive geometry.”

Kuba textiles continue to fascinate collectors, museums and interior designers with their modernist aesthetic. Here are two exquisite pieces of appliquéd Kuba cloth serving like abstract wall paintings that create a dramatic effect in a home.